Cocaine + Surfing

Cocaine + Surfing
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher : Rare Bird Books
  • Pages : 188
  • Relase : 2019-12-11
  • ISBN : 1644280337

Cocaine + Surfing Book Review:

From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

Reports from Hell

Reports from Hell
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 192
  • Relase : 2020-06-19
  • ISBN : 1644280752

Reports from Hell Book Review:

A gonzo ride through war-torn Yemen as only Chas Smith, the award-winning author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell and Cocaine + Surfing: A Sordid History of Surfing's Greatest Love Affair, could provide. Follow Smith and his misfit band of merrymakers as they search for the true origins of Al Qaeda and endeavor to ride the unsurfed waves of Yemen all while exploring the slim opportunities for fun in the margins of our global war on terror and at what cost--even if it means eventual kidnapping by Hezbollah.

Empire in Waves

Empire in Waves
  • Author : Scott Laderman
  • Publisher : Univ of California Press
  • Pages : 256
  • Relase : 2014-01-18
  • ISBN : 9780520958043

Empire in Waves Book Review:

Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century. Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film Blue Crush. From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide. Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world.

Blessed Are the Bank Robbers

Blessed Are the Bank Robbers
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher : Abrams
  • Pages : 272
  • Relase : 2022-03-15
  • ISBN : 9781647005467

Blessed Are the Bank Robbers Book Review:

A rollicking true story of Bibles and bank robberies in Southern California, from a talented and highly praised gonzo journalist Chas Smith grew up deeply enmeshed in the evangelical Christian world that grew out of Southern California in the late 1960s. His family included famous missionaries and megachurch pastors, but his cousin Daniel Courson was Grandma’s favorite. Smith looked up to Cousin Danny. He was handsome, adventurous, and smart, earned a degree from Bible college, and settled into a family and a stable career. Needless to say, it was a big surprise when Cousin Danny started robbing banks. Known as the “Floppy Hat Bandit,” Courson robbed 19 of them in a torrid six-week spree before being caught and sentenced to seven years. When he tried to escape, they tacked on another year. And when he finally got out, despite seeming to be back on the straight and narrow, Cousin Danny disappeared. Banks started getting robbed again. It seemed Cousin Danny might be gunning for the record. Smith’s Blessed Are the Bank Robbers is the wild, and wildly entertaining, story of an all-American anti-hero. It’s a tale of bank robberies, art and jewel heists, high-speed chases, fake identities, encrypted Swiss email accounts, jilted lovers, and the dark side of an evangelical family (and it wasn’t just Danny; an uncle was mixed up with the mujahideen). It’s a book about what it means to live inside the church and outside the law.

Paradise Lost

Paradise Lost
  • Author : John Milton
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 378
  • Relase : 1711
  • ISBN : OXFORD:N11678720

Paradise Lost Book Review:

Welcome to Paradise

Welcome to Paradise
  • Author : Laurence Shames
  • Publisher : Fawcett Books
  • Pages : 258
  • Relase : 2000
  • ISBN : 9780345432186

Welcome to Paradise Book Review:

A case of mistaken identity threatens to ruin the Florida vacations of a furniture salesman from New Jersey and a mobster from New York.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Pages : 384
  • Relase : 2015-07-21
  • ISBN : 9780698163744

Barbarian Days Book Review:

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Tapping the Source

Tapping the Source
  • Author : Kem Nunn
  • Publisher : Simon and Schuster
  • Pages : 320
  • Relase : 2012-06-19
  • ISBN : 9781451645552

Tapping the Source Book Review:

NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST Kem Nunn’s “surf noir” classic is a thrilling plunge into the seedy underbelly of a Southern California beach town—the inspiration for the film Point Break. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from...and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

A Paradise Built in Hell

A Paradise Built in Hell
  • Author : Rebecca Solnit
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Pages : 368
  • Relase : 2010-08-31
  • ISBN : 9781101459010

A Paradise Built in Hell Book Review:

The author of Men Explain Things to Me explores the moments of altruism and generosity that arise in the aftermath of disaster Why is it that in the aftermath of a disaster? whether manmade or natural?people suddenly become altruistic, resourceful, and brave? What makes the newfound communities and purpose many find in the ruins and crises after disaster so joyous? And what does this joy reveal about ordinarily unmet social desires and possibilities? In A Paradise Built in Hell, award-winning author Rebecca Solnit explores these phenomena, looking at major calamities from the 1906 earthquake in San Francisco through the 1917 explosion that tore up Halifax, Nova Scotia, the 1985 Mexico City earthquake, 9/11, and Hurricane Katrina in New Orleans. She examines how disaster throws people into a temporary utopia of changed states of mind and social possibilities, as well as looking at the cost of the widespread myths and rarer real cases of social deterioration during crisis. This is a timely and important book from an acclaimed author whose work consistently locates unseen patterns and meanings in broad cultural histories.

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell
  • Author : Chas Smith
  • Publisher : It Books
  • Pages : 256
  • Relase : 2014-07-08
  • ISBN : 0062202537

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell Book Review:

A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, Oahu's paradisical North Shore turns into a fiery hell. Its population more than triples as mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans transform the normally sleepy shore into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca where fearless men paddle into thirty-foot waves breaking over a razor-sharp reef. And when the sun goes down, the true danger comes out as drug money, fights, murder, and extortion rule the surfing underworld. The North Shore during winter is downright dangerous but also exhilarating, and Chas Smith paints a true picture of what it feels like to be in the middle of it all. Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell is both a breathtaking and wildly funny tale of beauty, wickedness, and the unyielding allure of ocean waves in all their glory.

In Search of Captain Zero PA

In Search of Captain Zero PA
  • Author : Allan Weisbecker
  • Publisher : TarcherPerigee
  • Pages : 352
  • Relase : 2002-09-16
  • ISBN : 1585421774

In Search of Captain Zero PA Book Review:

In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.

All for a Few Perfect Waves

All for a Few Perfect Waves
  • Author : David Rensin
  • Publisher : Harper Collins
  • Pages : 528
  • Relase : 2009-03-17
  • ISBN : 9780061868160

All for a Few Perfect Waves Book Review:

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Da Bull

Da Bull
  • Author : Greg Noll,Andrea Gabbard
  • Publisher : North Atlantic Books
  • Pages : 193
  • Relase : 1989
  • ISBN : 1556431430

Da Bull Book Review:

Analyse : Le pionnier du surf en Californie, Greg Noll surnommé "Da Bull", raconte son parcours et à travers ses souvenirs, dévoile sa passion dévorante pour ce sport riche en sensations fortes.

Bunker Spreckels. Surfing's divine prince of Decadence. Ediz. inglese, francese e tedesca

Bunker Spreckels. Surfing's divine prince of Decadence. Ediz. inglese, francese e tedesca
  • Author : C. R. Stecyk Iii
  • Publisher : Taschen America Llc
  • Pages : 215
  • Relase : 2007
  • ISBN : 3822853380

Bunker Spreckels. Surfing's divine prince of Decadence. Ediz. inglese, francese e tedesca Book Review:

Discover the wild life and times of surfer turned socialite Bunker Spreckels. Photographer Art Brewer's images and writer C. R. Stecyk III's revealing interview detail the rise to fame and crashing fall of Spreckel; a tale of tragic excess played out on the sun-drenched beaches of Hawaii, Los Angeles, and South Africa.

Caught Inside

Caught Inside
  • Author : Daniel Duane
  • Publisher : Macmillan
  • Pages : 256
  • Relase : 1997-04-10
  • ISBN : 0865475091

Caught Inside Book Review:

Recounts a year of surfing in California, shares observations on Pacific shore ecology, and looks at the history of the state and surfing

We Approach Our Martinis with Such High Expectations

We Approach Our Martinis with Such High Expectations
  • Author : Jamie Brisick
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 160
  • Relase : 2002
  • ISBN : 0965653579

We Approach Our Martinis with Such High Expectations Book Review:

Perry Farrell, 2002 Jamie Brisick has revived my yearning for travel and adventure..He makes me want to return back to the water.Sandow Birk, Los Angeles 2002 Brisick brings a remarkable power to his descriptions and images of this world that he moves in.Surfing Magazine, April 2002 Jamie Brisick is a 21st century philosopher and genius-raving surf journalist and offers all that and more in Martinis.

Life of Pi

Life of Pi
  • Author : Yann Martel
  • Publisher : Vintage Canada
  • Pages : 480
  • Relase : 2009-03-19
  • ISBN : 9780307371126

Life of Pi Book Review:

Life of Pi is a masterful and utterly original novel that is at once the story of a young castaway who faces immeasurable hardships on the high seas, and a meditation on religion, faith, art and life that is as witty as it is profound. Using the threads of all of our best stories, Yann Martel has woven a glorious spiritual adventure that makes us question what it means to be alive, and to believe.

This Side of Paradise

This Side of Paradise
  • Author : F. Scott Fitzgerald
  • Publisher : Courier Corporation
  • Pages : 224
  • Relase : 2012-03-12
  • ISBN : 9780486115146

This Side of Paradise Book Review:

Definitive novel of the "Lost Generation" focuses on the coming of age of Amory Blaine, a handsome, wealthy Princeton student. Fitzgerald's first novel and an immediate, spectacular success. Note.

Golden Daze

Golden Daze
  • Author : Sean Doherty
  • Publisher : Hachette Australia
  • Pages : 256
  • Relase : 2020-04-21
  • ISBN : 0733639445

Golden Daze Book Review:

GOLDEN DAZE is a compelling memoir of Australian surfing through a year in the life of Australia's top surfers. Starting in 1963, renowned surfing journalist Sean Doherty charts the history of surfing through the stories of Surfing Australia's Hall of Fame inductees. Taking a year and a surfer at a time, he will reveal what they did, where they surfed and their life events in fascinating depth and detail. Illustrated with unpublished images from the surfers' private collections, these stories also give a vivid sense of the shifting world around them, particularly in the ever-changing realm of surfing. GOLDEN DAZE opens in 1963 with Peter Troy jumping ship in Melbourne with a surfboard under his arm, embarking on his fabled surfing odyssey that saw him introducing surfing to Brazil, being crowned European champion, hitching alone across the Kalahari Desert and watching an unknown band from Liverpool called the Beatles. 1964 is Midget Farrelly's story of winning the first world title on home sand at Manly Beach. In 1969 Wayne Lynch goes down the coast, avoiding the Vietnam draft. And in 1971, Alby Falzon stumbles upon the island of Bali while shooting his humble surf movie MORNING OF THE EARTH. The book brings to life the 60s, 70s, 80s, 90s and noughties through the eyes of the Australian surfers who defined them best, ending today with stories of potential Hall of Famers, contemporary stars like Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson and Tyler Wright. Part journal, part biography, part surf culture memoir, GOLDEN DAZE gives a fascinating insight into Australian surfing and what makes it so unique.

Heaven and Hell

Heaven and Hell
  • Author : Bart D. Ehrman
  • Publisher : Simon and Schuster
  • Pages : 352
  • Relase : 2021-03-23
  • ISBN : 9781501136740

Heaven and Hell Book Review:

Over half of Americans believe in a literal heaven, in a literal hell. Most people who hold these beliefs are Christian and assume they are the age-old teachings of the Bible. Ehrman shows that eternal rewards and punishments are found nowhere in the Old Testament, and are not what Jesus or his disciples taught. He recounts the long history of the afterlife, ranging from The Epic of Gilgamesh up to the writings of Augustine, focusing especially on the teachings of Jesus and his early followers. Ehrman shows that competing views were intimately connected with the social, cultural, and historical worlds out of which they emerged. -- adapted from jacket