Hound of the Sea

Hound of the Sea
  • Author : Garrett McNamara,Karen Karbo
  • Publisher : HarperCollins
  • Pages : 304
  • Relase : 2016-11-15
  • ISBN : 9780062343611

Hound of the Sea Book Review:

In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara--star and subject of the HBO mini-series, 100 Foot Wave--chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazaré, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes—to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn’t just thrill seeking, he explains—it’s about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara’s story—as they have William Finnegan’s Barbarian Days—an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.

Force of Nature

Force of Nature
  • Author : Laird Hamilton
  • Publisher : Rodale
  • Pages : 262
  • Relase : 2010-08-31
  • ISBN : 9781609611026

Force of Nature Book Review:

With a superhero's physique, a beautiful athlete/model wife, and the ocean as his office, Laird Hamilton's charmed lifestyle is enviable. Now he shares his secrets for living a balanced life, including the unique physical regimens, mental strategies, andspiritual beliefs that have allowed Hamilton to do what he loves, while being surrounded by family and radiating peak health and fitness.--From publisher description.

Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days
  • Author : William Finnegan
  • Publisher : Penguin
  • Pages : 384
  • Relase : 2015-07-21
  • ISBN : 9780698163744

Barbarian Days Book Review:

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Ghost Wave

Ghost Wave
  • Author : Chris Dixon
  • Publisher : Chronicle Books
  • Pages : 280
  • Relase : 2011-10-21
  • ISBN : 9781452110097

Ghost Wave Book Review:

“Takes us to a place of almost mythic power and tells a story that unfolds like a long ride on a killer wave . . . compellingly written.” —Sebastian Junger, New York Times–bestselling author Rising from the depths of the North Pacific lies a fabled island, now submerged just fifteen feet below the surface of the ocean. Rumors and warnings about Cortes Bank abound, but among big wave surfers, this legendary rock is famous for one simple (and massive) reason: this is the home of the biggest rideable wave on the face of the earth. In this dramatic work of narrative nonfiction, journalist Chris Dixon unlocks the secrets of Cortes Bank and pulls readers into the harrowing world of big wave surfing and high seas adventure above the most enigmatic and dangerous rock in the sea. The true story of this Everest of the sea will thrill anyone with an abiding curiosity of and respect for mother ocean. “A terrific, deeply researched tale about a truly wild place. You couldn’t make up Cortes Bank, or the characters who’ve tried to make it theirs.” —William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize–winning author of Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life “A first-rate account of an amazing phenomenon and the people who tried to conquer and exploit it. A great read.” —Winston Groom, New York Times–bestselling author of Forrest Gump “After reading Chris’ most excellent account of the monstrous waves of the mysterious Cortes Bank—the Bermuda Triangle of the Pacific—I never thought I would ever consider riding a wave like this. But after surviving a five-foot, head-first fall from the stage earlier this year, I think I might be ready.” —Jimmy Buffett

No Bad Waves

No Bad Waves
  • Author : Anonim
  • Publisher : Patagonia
  • Pages : 160
  • Relase : 2013-10-06
  • ISBN : 9781938340086

No Bad Waves Book Review:

Mickey Muñoz has been called the “surfer’s surfer,” and is loved and respected among the cognoscenti for his contributions to surfing and the surfing life for the past 60 years as a surfer, a pioneer of Waimea Bay, a stuntman (stand-in for Gidget), a board shaper and designer, and as a sailor and boatbuilder (America’s Cup). Mentored by the Malibu greats of the ’40s, and an influence on generations of surfers since, Mickey weaves the story of a California waterman using his own life and that of his friends.

Grey Skies, Green Waves

Grey Skies, Green Waves
  • Author : Tom Anderson
  • Publisher : Summersdale Publishers LTD
  • Pages : 159
  • Relase : 2010-06-01
  • ISBN : 9781848394414

Grey Skies, Green Waves Book Review:

A surfer's wet and wild journey through Britain and Ireland Tom Anderson has always loved surfing—anywhere except the UK. But a chance encounter leads him to a series of adventures on home surf. As he visits the popular haunts and secret gems of British surfing he meets the Christians who pray for waves (and get them), loses a competition to a non–existent surfer, is nearly drowned in the River Severn, and has a watery encounter with a pedigree sheep. All this rekindles his love affair with the freezing fun that is surfing the North Atlantic.

The Words and Music of Bob Marley

The Words and Music of Bob Marley
  • Author : David Vlado Moskowitz
  • Publisher : Greenwood
  • Pages : 176
  • Relase : 2007
  • ISBN : UOM:39015066858187

The Words and Music of Bob Marley Book Review:

An analysis of the music and lyrics of one of the most transcendent figures in popular music, Bob Marley.

Liferider

Liferider
  • Author : Laird Hamilton,Julian Borra
  • Publisher : Rodale Books
  • Pages : 256
  • Relase : 2019-03-12
  • ISBN : 9781635652918

Liferider Book Review:

NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • Surfing icon Laird Hamilton offers inspiration to anyone who wants to elevate their ordinary, landlocked lives to do extraordinary things. “When Laird Hamilton surfs, you must watch. When he speaks, I listen. And when he writes a book, I’m damn sure gonna read it. Twice.”—Eddie Vedder, Grammy Award–winning lead vocalist of Pearl Jam Millions of us increasingly seek happiness in fads and self-help books, reaching upward every day toward some enlightened state that we wish to attain. Laird Hamilton is more intent on looking inward and appreciating the brilliant creatures we already are. In Liferider, Laird uses five key pillars—Death & Fear, Heart, Body, Soul, and Everything Is Connected—to illustrate his unique worldview and life practices. This is Laird Hamilton in his own words—raw, honest, and unvarnished—on topics he has rarely explored before. Based on extensive interviews and conversations between Laird and his coauthor, Julian Borra, with additional insights from Laird’s wife, pro-volleyball player Gabby Reece, Liferider takes on human resilience, relationships, business, technology, risk-taking, and the importance of respecting the natural world, all through the lens of Laird’s extraordinary life both in and beyond the ocean. Praise for Liferider “Laird is a hero, if you want him to be. That’s up to your perception. He challenges himself, and he challenges those around him. He shows us that the deeper we puncture into life, the more vibrant the colors get. The Laird Hamilton I know—real, faulty, moody, deeply loving, and communal—comes through on every page of Liferider.”—Josh Brolin, Award-Winning Actor “Laird Hamilton is a true individualist unafraid to carve his own path. These thoughtful mediations offer a unique window — illuminating and inspiring — into one of America's great innovators.”—Rory Kennedy, Documentary Filmmaker

The Drop

The Drop
  • Author : Thad Ziolkowski
  • Publisher : HarperCollins
  • Pages : 169
  • Relase : 2021-07-06
  • ISBN : 9780062965950

The Drop Book Review:

In this revelatory and original book, award-winning author of the acclaimed surf memoir On a Wave illuminates the connection between waves, addiction, and recovery, exploring what surfing can teach us about the powerful undertow of addictive behaviors and the ways to swim free of them. Addiction is arguably the dominant feature of contemporary life: sex, gambling, exercise, eating, shopping, Internet use—there's virtually no pleasurable activity that can't morph into a destructive obsession. For Americans under the age of fifty-five, the leading cause of death is drug overdose. But there is another side of addiction. In some instances, the very activities that can lead to addiction can also lead out of it. As neurologists have recently discovered, surfing is a kind of study in the mechanism of addiction, delivering dopamine to the "pleasure" center of the brain and reshaping priorities and desire in a feedback loop of narrowing focus. Thad Ziolkowski knows this dynamic intimately. A lifelong surfer, he has been surrounded by addiction since his boyhood. In this unique, groundbreaking book, part addiction memoir, part sociological study, part spiritual odyssey, Ziolkowski dismantles the myth of surfing as a radiantly wholesome lifestyle immune to the darker temptations of the culture and discovers among the rubble a new way to understand and ultimately overcome addiction. Combining his own story with insights from scientists, progressive thinkers and the experiences of top surfers and addicts from around the world, Ziolkowski shows how getting on a board and catching a wave is a unique and deeply instructive means of riding out of the darkness and back into the light. Yet while surfing is his salvation, its lessons can applied to other activities that can pull us free from the lethal undertow of addiction and save lives.

Fahrenheit 451

Fahrenheit 451
  • Author : Ray Bradbury
  • Publisher : Simon and Schuster
  • Pages : 216
  • Relase : 2003-09-23
  • ISBN : 9780743247221

Fahrenheit 451 Book Review:

A totalitarian regime has ordered all books to be destroyed, but one of the book burners suddenly realizes their merit.

TC

TC
  • Author : Tom Carroll,Nick Carroll
  • Publisher : Random House Australia
  • Pages : 370
  • Relase : 2015-02
  • ISBN : 9780857987051

TC Book Review:

The former professional surfer tells his own story On the surface he was Tom Carroll, dreamer, brilliant surfer, Australian sports hero, fitness fanatic, businessman, family man, and big wave charger. But inside turned the terrible wheel of drug addiction--part family curse, part legacy of the footloose surf culture he'd done so much to legitimize. Tom's family and friends struggled with him, kept his secrets, and looked on in anger and fear as the wheel began to grind him down. Then a window opened, but getting through it made charging Pipeline look like a piece of cake. This is the story of an unlikely moral education: of humility, family, damage, brotherhood, youth, stupidity, glory, single-mindedness, and surrender, and about the feeling of water moving under a surfboard, how it can bind past to present and make sense of lives.

Moving Boarders

Moving Boarders
  • Author : Matthew Atencio,Becky Beal,E. Missy Wright,ZáNean McClain
  • Publisher : University of Arkansas Press
  • Pages : 315
  • Relase : 2018-12-03
  • ISBN : 9781610756532

Moving Boarders Book Review:

Once considered a kind of delinquent activity, skateboarding is on track to join soccer, baseball, and basketball as an approved way for American children to pass the after-school hours. With family skateboarding in the San Francisco Bay Area as its focus, Moving Boarders explores this switch in stance, integrating first-person interviews and direct observations to provide a rich portrait of youth skateboarders, their parents, and the social and market forces that drive them toward the skate park. This excellent treatise on the contemporary youth sports scene examines how modern families embrace skateboarding and the role commerce plays in this unexpected new parent culture, and highlights how private corporations, community leaders, parks and recreation departments, and nonprofits like the Tony Hawk Foundation have united to energize skate parks—like soccer fields before them—as platforms for community engagement and the creation of social and economic capital.

The Wave

The Wave
  • Author : Susan Casey
  • Publisher : Anchor Canada
  • Pages : 397
  • Relase : 2011-05-31
  • ISBN : 9780385666688

The Wave Book Review:

A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

The Waves

The Waves
  • Author : Virginia Woolf
  • Publisher : Random House
  • Pages : 224
  • Relase : 2012-04-05
  • ISBN : 9781448138999

The Waves Book Review:

WITH INTRODUCTIONS BY JEANETTE WINTERSON AND GILLIAN BEER The Waves is an astonishingly beautiful and poetic novel. It begins with six children playing in a garden by the sea and follows their lives as they grow up and experience friendship, love and grief at the death of their beloved friend Percival. Regarded by many as her greatest work, The Waves is also seen as Virginia Woolf's response to the loss of her brother Thoby, who died when he was twenty-six. The Vintage Classics Virginia Woolf series has been curated by Jeanette Winterson, and the texts used are based on the original Hogarth Press editions published by Leonard and Virginia Woolf.

Odyssey

Odyssey
  • Author : Homer
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 398
  • Relase : 1895
  • ISBN : IOWA:31858007127040

Odyssey Book Review:

Lore of the Wild

Lore of the Wild
  • Author : Claire Cock-Starkey
  • Publisher : Nature's Folklore
  • Pages : 76
  • Relase : 2021-09-21
  • ISBN : 9780711260696

Lore of the Wild Book Review:

Lore of the Wild delves into traditional nature folklore from around the world, revealing the influence of trees, plants, insects, birds, animals, and weather on daily life.

A Book of Verses

A Book of Verses
  • Author : William Ernest Henley
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 167
  • Relase : 1888
  • ISBN : NYPL:33433112041938

A Book of Verses Book Review:

Songs of a Sourdough

Songs of a Sourdough
  • Author : Robert William Service
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 168
  • Relase : 1911
  • ISBN : WISC:89000669952

Songs of a Sourdough Book Review:

Palgrave's Golden Treasury of Songs and Lyrics ... - Primary Source Edition

Palgrave's Golden Treasury of Songs and Lyrics ... - Primary Source Edition
  • Author : Francis Turner Palgrave,William Bell,John Henry Fowler
  • Publisher : Nabu Press
  • Pages : 274
  • Relase : 2013-12
  • ISBN : 1293393487

Palgrave's Golden Treasury of Songs and Lyrics ... - Primary Source Edition Book Review:

This is a reproduction of a book published before 1923. This book may have occasional imperfections such as missing or blurred pages, poor pictures, errant marks, etc. that were either part of the original artifact, or were introduced by the scanning process. We believe this work is culturally important, and despite the imperfections, have elected to bring it back into print as part of our continuing commitment to the preservation of printed works worldwide. We appreciate your understanding of the imperfections in the preservation process, and hope you enjoy this valuable book.

Around the Coast in Eighty Waves

Around the Coast in Eighty Waves
  • Author : Jonathan Bennett
  • Publisher :
  • Pages : 302
  • Relase : 2016
  • ISBN : 1910124885

Around the Coast in Eighty Waves Book Review:

Jonathan Bennett lived in an old, unheated campervan for fourteen months, and travelled clockwise all round Britain, surfing every beach he could catch a wave.